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Pupa at 50: An Italian Makeup Darling Looking to Pivot to Global Beauty Brand

StaffBy StaffDecember 23, 20253 Mins Read
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Pupa Milano: A Legacy of Innovation in Beauty

For many Italian girls of the ’80s and ’90s, the holiday season was incomplete without the all-important Pupa makeup case on their Christmas wish list. These whimsical kits, often shaped like cute toys or animals, brought a sense of nostalgia and playfulness to the makeup experience during an era when cosmetic packaging was predominantly subdued and sophisticated. Pupa’s distinctive approach not only made makeup accessible but also turned it into a joyful exploration, enticing young girls to develop their own beauty routines.

Founded in 1975 by Angelo Gatti, Pupa Milano quickly distinguished itself in the beauty industry, thanks to its commitment to creativity and inclusivity, positioned at a sweet-spot price range. As the company prepares to celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2025, these values remain at the core of Pupa’s identity. This Italian brand, based in Casatenovo, reported impressive sales of €98.5 million in 2024, with a significant 85% of that directly attributed to makeup products. This longevity speaks to its ability to adapt and evolve over decades while maintaining a unique charm.

As Pupa Milano sets its sights on becoming a global beauty powerhouse, the brand is focusing on enhancing its international presence. This involves innovative product development, impactful marketing strategies, and expanding distribution channels. The brand has a rich history of iconic products that showcase its pioneering spirit, including the first “Bouquet” beauty kit in 1975 and the innovative suitcase-shaped "Genesis" box in 1983, featuring lighting to simulate professional makeup stations. These products not only highlight the brand’s playful aesthetic but also its commitment to functionality and creativity in beauty.

Valerio Gatti, the company’s CEO and Angelo’s son, emphasizes that Pupa Milano’s uniqueness stems from its imaginative approach. "My father founded this company with no means but relied on creativity," he explains. This innovative mindset manifests in their various makeup kits that redefined packaging in an era dominated by traditional styles. By introducing a burst of color and unique shapes to the market, Pupa struck a chord with generations of women who appreciate its playful and expressive nature.

The beauty landscape has undeniably shifted since the brand’s founding. Faced with fierce competition and a rapidly changing market, Gatti believes that Pupa’s success will come from harnessing its core DNA while adapting to modern demands. Although the market appears crowded with low-cost brands, Gatti emphasizes that engaging in a price war would detract from Pupa’s creative vision. Instead, the brand focuses on highlighting its unique proposition and bringing innovative products to consumers, like the popular Vamp! mascara and trendy lipsticks that capture contemporary beauty trends on platforms like TikTok.

Despite having a solid foothold in the market, Pupa Milano recognizes the importance of agility in navigating the complex and diverse global landscape. While it continues to grow in established regions like Italy, France, and the Netherlands, there’s significant potential in emerging markets, including Brazil and Tunisia. Gatti acknowledges the challenges posed by the changing domestic landscape, characterized by shifts in purchasing power and the influx of indie brands. As Pupa prepares for its next chapter, it remains committed to evolving and nurturing its legacy while maximizing opportunities to strengthen connections with beauty enthusiasts worldwide.

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