Penhaligon’s, a distinguished fragrance brand under Puig, is set to unveil its latest exhibition, “Eau So British,” in Shanghai during the city’s highly anticipated fashion week, which runs from March 25 to April 1. This exhibition highlights the rich tapestry of the brand’s 155-year history through various archive items, visual storytelling, and a narrative grounded in English heritage. Julia Koeppen, the global general manager at Penhaligon’s, emphasized that this event is not just a showcase of scents, but also an exploration of the brand’s esteemed lineage, drawing connections to its royal patronage and the ingenious spirit of its founder. This celebration of British culture in the context of a global city like Shanghai marks an exciting moment where Eastern and Western influences converge.
Central to the exhibition is the creative collaboration with Chinese artist He Xian, who has reinterpreted the story of Penhaligon’s first fragrance, Hammam Bouquet, through the medium of traditional shadow puppetry. This six-scene play narrates how William Penhaligon, a Cornish barber, found inspiration in the Turkish baths of London, transforming his experiences into what would become a hallmark scent of the brand. The innovative use of shadow puppetry serves not only to engage the audience but also connects different cultures through artistry, allowing Chinese audiences to relate to a quintessentially British brand through a familiar narrative technique.
Penhaligon’s has established a strong foothold in China since its entry seven years ago, showcasing a remarkable expansion across major cities with a focus on engaging a youthful demographic. Koeppen noted that the average consumer in China is around 30 years old and is drawn to the brand’s imaginative storytelling, particularly the unique portraits collection featuring whimsical animal heads. This younger consumer base represents an exciting opportunity as they seek fragrances that resonate with personal narratives and cultural depth. Koeppen’s recent visits to Guangzhou and Shenzhen allowed her to observe changing trends in retail, witnessing how local brands are integrating culture into their identities, reinforcing the idea that innovation can be drawn from diverse influences.
The history and heritage that Penhaligon’s embodies are vital to its brand identity. Koeppen mentioned that many consumers in China may not initially understand the depth of that heritage. Despite its popularity, many were unaware of the brand’s storied past, including its close ties to the British royal family and its 155 years of tradition. There is a growing recognition of the value of heritage in the Chinese market, making the exhibition’s aim to highlight this history particularly relevant. By showcasing Penhaligon’s roots alongside innovative marketing, the brand effectively navigates the delicate balance between tradition and modernity.
William Penhaligon himself is portrayed as a true visionary and disruptor of his time, who bravely relocated his family to London with the aspiration of establishing a barber shop. His rapid ascent from a small business owner to a supplier for the royal household exemplifies the spirit of ambition that the brand continues to embody. This aspect of Penhaligon’s history resonates with contemporary consumers looking for brands that mirror their own values of resilience and creativity. Koeppen highlighted the uniqueness of Penhaligon’s Britishness, positioning it as an essential differentiator in a market historically dominated by French fragrance houses.
In terms of fragrance preferences within the Chinese market, Koeppen pointed out a trend towards lighter scents that appeal to local tastes, such as the Coveted Duchess Rose and the new fragrance Luna, which melds notes of orange, jasmine, soft rose, and fir balsam. Fragrances linked to royalty, like Highgrove Bouquet—a creation inspired by King Charles III’s private estate—are particularly well-received, fluttering the imaginations of consumers intrigued by the aristocratic lifestyle. The Portraits collection, with its playful animal-headed bottles, captures stories of British nobility and further engages consumers in an imaginative narrative that transcends geographical boundaries.
The “Eau So British” exhibition, which will be open to the public from March 31 to April 6, is set to travel to London in late 2025 and will embark on a world tour focusing on major cities in the Asia-Pacific region next year. This commitment to share Penhaligon’s heritage on a global stage marks an exciting evolution in the brand’s journey, as it aspires to connect with diverse audiences around the world while celebrating its British roots. Julia Koeppen’s vision for the future of Penhaligon’s not only looks to honor its storied past but also embraces the evolving tastes and cultural narratives of emerging markets, ensuring the brand remains vibrant and relevant well into the future.